Top 6 Reasons Why You Need a Remote for PowerPoint Presentations

A top complaint from audience members is that many presenters put too much emphasis on PowerPoint and technology while neglecting the message and interaction with participants. One way to deliver more effective presentations that improve your connection to your audience is to add a remote control to your presentation tools.

Why would one more piece of technology actually switch your focus from PowerPoint to your audience? Have you been distracted (or bored) as a presenter stopped the flow of their talk to pace back to the laptop to change to another slide or as they waited for a partner to move to the next slide? This is one of the 6 reasons why you need a remote for your PowerPoint presentations:

  • Break Down the AV Wall. Without a remote, you are limited to the area by your laptop which builds a wall between you and your audience;
  • Get Control. You never want someone else to control the computer while you have to keep saying, “next please” or flash hand signals. This approach breaks the flow of the speech, annoys your audience, and risks that your helper moves to the wrong slide;
  • Fewer Distractions. Use a remote to stop distracting others who watch you walking back to your computer to move to the next slide. Plus, a remote helps you maintain eye contact with the audience instead of looking at your laptop;
  • Smoother Animations. The impact and flow of most animations is lost when you run animations manually from your laptop;
  • More Professional. Presenting without a remote takes away from the professionalism of a presenter and directs the focus to the technology (or to the lack of tech-savvy if anything goes wrong);
  • Cool Factor. Okay, maybe not a key justification, but a remote is a nifty and useful addition to your technology tools.

With a presentation remote control, you can more effectively and smoothly deliver an electronic presentation and communicate your message. That said, even though I am a huge fan of remotes, you always want to know multiple ways to navigate with the keyboard while delivering a PowerPoint presentation. Keyboard commands may sometimes be faster or at least give you a backup plan.

The New Ultimate Listing Presentation – The Ultimate CMA

In the previous segment, we talked about you becoming the best agent for the job. I mentioned the importance of learning your market statistics and told you exactly how to do that. I discussed how you could increase your credibility and power by arming yourself with some very specific knowledge. I’ll assume that you’ve done your homework now and are ready to learn the actual listing presentation that made me one of the top listing agents in the country.

I want you to notice that I haven’t referred to myself as one of the smartest agents in the country because there are plenty of agents who are smarter than me. I haven’t claimed that I’m the hardest-working agent in the country because there are lots of hard-working agents.

But I do maintain that I’m one of the top listing agents because there are very, very few agents who have listed as many homes in a single year as I have, and even fewer who have listed all of their homes for 8% or more. And there are fewer yet who have netted their clients as much as 10% more money at closing while selling their homes twice as fast as most of the agents in their markets.

So how do I do it? I use a unique system that I call “the traffic approach.” In a few minutes we’ll get into this approach to listing, but first we need to examine how I go about doing a CMA (comparative market analysis).

The Ultimate CMA

Let’s be completely honest… as a listing agent using the traditional method of doing a CMA, you can make the numbers say just about anything you want. I know that’s a pretty strong statement, so let me explain.

With the traditional CMA method, the agent selects three recently sold properties that are closely comparable to the subject home (or the home being valued). In most markets, it’s easy to find three properties that sold high, three that sold low, and three that sold somewhere in the middle and still have many other comparables from which to choose.

The real problem is the sample size. In statistics there is a concept known as “margin of error”. The margin of error in any sample can be calculated with a simple formula: Margin of error equals one divided by the square root of the sample size. For example if you have a sample size of 400, the square root of 400 is 20. One divided by 20 is 1/20th or 5%. The margin of error for a sample size of 400 is 5%.

When I teach classes on doing a CMA, I typically walk the class through these calculations on several sample sizes. What if you had 100 in your sample? The margin of error would be 10%. Or a sample of 64? A 12.5% margin of error. What if you had 25? Margin of error is 20%. A sample of 16? You’ve got it… 25%.

Then I ask them what if they had a sample of just 3 comparables? Margin of error of 58%! Think about it. You are essentially saying, “Mr. Seller… your home is worth $220,000… plus or minus $129,000!” Thankfully, you aren’t really saying it, or you would never get the listing.

Do you see the problem? It’s the sample size. That’s why when the seller balks after you suggest a listing price, you immediately retreat and say, “Well, maybe I can try to find some different comparables and call you back tomorrow.” Then you go back to the office, tail between your legs, and rework the comps and voila, you manage to build a new CMA with the price the seller wants. Let’s be honest. We’ve all seen this happen, if we haven’t done it ourselves.

What we’ve traditionally been trained to do is use the least expensive set of comps for their initial CMA. This method makes the case for listing the home as inexpensively as possible and allows it to sell quickly. But there is one problem with that. As a seller’s agent, your fiduciary responsibility is to your seller. That means that you should be trying to get your client the most money for his property, not the least.

“So great, Matt,” you’re thinking, “You just destroyed the way I’ve always done CMAs. How do you do a CMA?” Good question. When I prepare a CMA, I take data from three sources: tax records (original sale price, not the assessment data), closed comparable listings in the MLS, and active comparable listings in the MLS. Remember, to get the most accurate price possible, with the lowest margin of error, I need the largest possible sample size.

First I look at the tax records to determine what I feel to be the “adjusted” current value of the home. For example, if it sold three years ago for $150,000, and there’s been an appreciation rate in that area of 25%, then I add that figure to the purchase price.

How do I find out how much the market has appreciated? Easy enough. I take the average sale price for the market (or any large subset of the market if there is enough data to give me a good sized sample) for the year the seller bought his home. Then I find the average sale price for the current year using the same sample group.

If the average sale price for my sample group for year one was $200,000 and the average sale price for this year is $250,000, then the market has appreciated 25% over that period. I then adjust the original purchase price by that amount. Using the example above, $150,000 plus 25% or $37,500 is an appreciation-adjusted valuation of $187,500. Certainly, this particular method, alone, is rather subjective. But, this is only one part of my valuation process.

Next I pull up all the closed comparables in the area or subdivision, going back a reasonable period of time, and I can usually find between ten and twenty of these. (In extremely hot markets where homes appreciate at double-digit rates, you shouldn’t go back farther than a few months or so in order to prevent the CMA from being skewed downward.) In most markets, that is not a problem.

Don’t forget that the amenities and how nice a home looks will affect the curb appeal and saleability of the property but will have very little impact on appraised value, so it’s best to use as many comparables as possible. In selecting my comps, I use the subdivision, the square footage (with a range of plus or minus 10%), and the number of bedrooms and baths. I then calculate the average sale price of the group, eliminating any outliers (e.g. homes that were foreclosures or distress sales) from my calculation.

Finally, I pull up all the active comparable listings. Again, I use the subdivision, the square footage, and the number of bedrooms and baths, but your market may be a little different in how the appraisers select comps. The point is to get as much data as possible!

Now we put it all together. Take the appreciation-adjusted value from the tax records, add the average price from the closed comps, and then add the average price from the active comps. Now take that number and divide by three, and you’ll have the true average value for the subject property.

Write down this new number somewhere, add and subtract 5% from it, and you have a “reasonable range” for the value of the home. And it’s accurate. If you use this method, you will find that you simply cannot skew the valuation up or down like you can using the Traditional CMA.

I know this is an out-of-the-box way of doing a CMA, but it will absolutely stand up under any amount of scrutiny by clients, other agents, or – most importantly – appraisers. I can tell you from experience that when you show your valuation to an appraiser or buyer’s agent, they have no issues with it. And this method will protect you from accidentally over-pricing or under-pricing a property.

Most significantly, it will reinforce in the mind of your seller the fact that you’re a market authority and know what you’re talking about. If a seller client should be harboring a suspicion that you’re trying to skew the numbers, his or her fears will quickly be allayed because you’ve considered every possible comparable in arriving at the current value of the home. Nothing except an actual appraisal could be more fair.

But now comes the fun part. Instead of having to do all that math, which is fairly time consuming, you can now use our simple calculator to build the Ultimate CMA and Proceeds Estimate in only a couple of minutes. In less than 5 minutes you can create a scientifically accurate CMA and Proceeds Estimate that will impress any seller.

Until then, work on getting your lead capture technology in place so you have an unending supply of inbound leads. And try out a few CMAs so that you are comfortable with this method. Next we’ll go into the actual presentation.

How Many Times a Year Do You Have to Buy a Birthday Present Or Wedding Anniversary Gift?

How many times a year do you have to buy a Birthday present or Wedding Anniversary gift? Or do you leave it to your partner to do all the gift buying? Even if you leave it all to your partner there must be a few occasions when you have to buy a gift or present for them, either on their birthday or at Christmas.

Do you tramp round the high street stores looking for an idea of what to buy or do you know what to buy and look for the stores that sell the gift you want to buy? There are two groups of gift buyers, those who love looking for gifts and presents to buy and those who find it a chore and struggle to find a suitable gift.

There are many occasions throughout the year when gifts or presents are given. The annual gift giving events are birthdays, anniversaries, Valentines day, Mothers day, Fathers day, and Christmas. On top of these there are the special events like births, special birthdays like 18th, 21st, 30th, 40th, 50th, 60th, 70th, 80th,90th,100th.

Next are Wedding gifts, which start with engagement presents then the actual Wedding gifts followed by each anniversary celebration. With Wedding anniversaries we have the milestones starting with the 1st which is Paper, 2nd is Cotton, 3rd is Leather, 4th is Books, 5th is Wood, 6th is Iron, 7th is Wool, 8th is Bronze, 9th is Pottery, 10th is Tin, 11th is Steel, 12th is Silk, 13th is Lace, 14th is Ivory, 15th is Crystal, 20th is China, 25th is Silver, 30th is Pearl, 35th is Coral, 40th is Ruby, 45th is Sapphire, 50th is Golden, 55th is Emerald, 60th is Diamond.

Other events that require a gift or present are the birth of a baby and next is the Christening, followed by graduation gifts, housewarming presents, get well gifts and not forgetting the sorry gift. Some in between gifts are new school, passing exams, passing driving test, leaving work, thank you, in hospital, moving away in fact the card and gift companies will invent occasions to give cards and gifts.

For those of us that struggle to either think of a different gift or don’t like trailing around the high street stores we now have the Internet to give us the ideas and they can even get the gift or present delivered to the door for us. If you love gift giving please read the next part but if you loath gift giving you may want to stop reading now.

Scenario: If you and your partner both live to 80 and got married when you were 25 and had two children by your 30th and had 10 close relatives that you always buy gifts for them you might be pleasantly surprised to know that over your lifetime you will probably give or be given:

80 birthdays each = 160 gifts, 55 Wedding Anniversaries each = 110 gifts, 55 Mothers days = 55 gifts, 55 Fathers days = 55 gifts, 60 Valentines days each = 120 presents, 80 Christmas days each = 160 gifts, Add a selection of Weddings, get wells, sorry gifts and modestly add 10 presents each year for 55 years = 550 presents. This list of presents adds up to 1,210 based on only one present per occasion per couple.

Now add into this the present you will give and receive from friends and relatives over your lifetime which could easily be the same as the total amount of gifts you have given or received 1,210 gifts x 10 relatives = 12,100 friends and relative gifts + 1,210 your gifts = 13310 gifts or presents you buy and receive. That is also probably 13,310 greeting cards you will buy and 13310 gift raps too. That means every couple will buy 166 presents on average every year.

If you take the UK has a population of 60 million and assume only 20 million are gift giving couples. Then the amount of present giving and receiving each year by couples is 166 gifts x 10 million couples = 1,660,000,000 gifts. Which are 4,547,945 gifts bought per day.

If the other 40 million UK residents only give gifts on birthdays then that equates to 123,288 presents bought everyday. In the US you can times these figures by 5 times.

On the other hand you may be horrified, unless you are a gift, card or rapping supplier.